The Backwaters

The backwaters of Kerala have been a tourist destination for quite sometime now. Located at Kumarakom about 15 kms from the district town of Kottayam, its network of rivers and canals with occassional villages in the lap of nature on both sides, and the greeneries accentuated by rows and groves of coconut trees have been attracting people from all over the world who feel the need of a bit of communion with nature at its most charming.

During a visit to my son's place at Bangalore about two years back, he arranged a trip for us and two nights stay at a resort in the backwaters at Kumarakom. There is a number of resorts in the region located on the bank of one canal or another. Ours was named Golden Waters.

We took a train from Bangalore and after an overnight journey, reached Kottayam sometime in the morning. A car and around an hour's journey later we were at the resort. The first impression as we reached, of the green lawns, plentiful plants with flowers in a variety of colours, trees, specially coconut trees, all around and the red tile roofed cottages , many built on concrete pillars over a canal which flowed through the whole stretch of the resort was quite pleasing.

The cottage we stayed in was quite comfortable with all the amenities we needed.

We just lazed around the first day, walking on gravelled paths, sitting and enjoying nature on the bank of the canal that flowed in front and generally doing nothing. Of course, we did not miss the Kerala cuisine at the restaurant and were told that a Bengali cook would prepare some Rohu fish the following day.

The restaurant as the backdrop.





A Kathakali dance performance that the resort organised for the travellers at night.

We went on a cruise in the morning to the bird sanctuary located near the giant lake which the canal meets. I understand many of the rivers and canals of the backwaters empty into this great expanse of water.

We had a keen bird watcher , a young and charming girl with us on the motor boat. She was ecstatic when she spotted a kingfisher on our way. Having seen many kingfishers in my time and at very many places, I could not share her ecstacy. The sanctuary, which we finally reached, was a bit of disappointment. We did not come across many bird species apart from one or two woodpeckers and some common herons or egrets. I understand now that a cruise in the lake could have been much more promising. I recall my visit to Bharatpur bird sanctuary and the boat ride in the lake there where I had the opportunity of seeing hundreds of birds of many species including a lone eagle on a tree top. I am no birdwatcher but who does not like birds? When we were young, even the Calcutta zoo was a veritable paradise of birds. The lake inside in the winter would be full of migratory birds ducks,whistling tills, brahmi ducks of glorious plummage and so many more whose names I do not know. Once I saw a Siberian stork laying her egg on a small island in the lake. I went to the zoo recently and had the shock of my life. Not only were birds scarce, many of the animals have disappeared.The zoo which used to look so green, appeared grey.

My son and I went for cycling after returning from the cruise on the roads around. He got so apprehensive after some time about the safety of his father with his creaky joints in the speeding traffic on the road, that I found it prudent to return to the cosy resort and went for a swim instead in the excellent swimming pool that the resort had.

We arranged for a boat ride the follwing morning and took turns along with the boatman to row.

He and I, both, have been rowers at one time or another at the Dhakuria lakes. But I preferred this pic of his for the post. We missed the snake boat race which is a very attractive event in Kerala and takes place in the backwaters . I inderstand it takes place as part of Onam festivies at the lake,Vembanad, which the lake I referred to, is called. (I must admit I did not know much about this famous lake before I started writing this post.) Each Snake boat has about a hundred or so oarsmen rowing to the rythm of their song. I have seen this race, as many must have, in the Discovery channel, but it would have been a treat to watch it live.

But Onam was just over.We had a taste of it while returning. Because of the rush, we could get train tickets only in 2nd class three tier. This in itself would not have been a problem, but we were given a special reserved coach at the end of the train without any conductor guards. We found the compartment filling up with people, mostly students, returning from Onam holidays to their colleges or places of work. We could hardly sit comfortably let alone sleep in our berths. Moving around became impossible - it was so crowded.

Possibly because it was Kerala, we could at least sit or were allowed to. I am aware that in some places in the country that would have been too much to expect under similar circumstances.

All good things end, bad things too. We reached Bangalore in the morning.